I like using putty to help join pieces and fill gaps! It allows
for stronger joints, better posing, and for some models, like
Tyranid Hive Tyrant. I hope to assemble some useful references
- Putty - I currently use:
- Milliput putty (Standard yellow/gray
should work) for building up and weighting bases. It is
very hard and heavy. It cures to a rock-like consistency.
- Kneadatite blue-white for filling gaps and more delicate
work. It adheres well and is cleaner and easier to sculpt,
- Kneadatite blue-yellow is best used for full fledged sculpting
projects, although Milliput may be desirable for components
that need to be rigid as blue-yellow will cure to the consistency
of hard rubber.
- Putty tools
- A double ball sculpting stylus.
- The standard GW putty tool - with a small blade on one
end and a squared rod on the other end.
Warning: I recommend that you do not use plumber-style
epoxy putty. It's only about a 35% savings, it is smelly and nasty,
and it will stain your hands like crazy.
Epoxy resin vs. solvent-based - there are two basic types,
epoxy resin putty (ERP) or premixed solvent-based putty (SBP).
ERPs are . . . epoxy resins, which means you have to mix two parts
together. Once you mix two equal parts, you knead them until the
color is uniform (evenly mixed) and then work into the space/shape
you want. It will gradually harden and it will become less water
soluble as it does. Once an ERP dries, it can be sanded, filed,
drilled, tapped, etc. ERPs bond materials together well; Milliput,
can even be machined after it has set. SBPs have the advantage
that you simply squeeze the tube and go to town. However, an SBP
is not as good for durability, adhesion, and building up features.
So, if you only need to fill some cracks, you can use an SBP or
ERP, but if you want to sculpt a new head, arm, weapon, etc. then
Grain size - Putties for use in hobbies and modelling come
in different grain sizes. Fine grain will be more expensive, but
is better for sculpting new parts and filling fine, exposed cracks.
Handling & Storage of Epoxy Resin Putty
Generally, the good stuff will come in a two-part ribbon. Separate
the two sides of the ribbon, cutting away and discarding the thin
strip where the two types meet. Store them separately inside the
freezer. This will dramatically increase their shelf life. Fear
not, it will be ready to use almost immediately from the freezer.
It will cut more cleanly because it is colder, and will warm up
almost immediately as you knead the two parts together.
- fill gaps in models
- create additions and modifications
- make your own figure
- [ERP] Kneadatite Blue-White (Manufacturer
Info) - good gap-filler on mins
- [ERP] Milliput (The Milliput
Company) - dries hard, can be machined; available in
Standard Yellow/Grey, Silver Grey, Superfine White, and
- [SBP] Kneadatite Blue-Yellow (Manufacturer
info) - AKA"green stuff" to minis enthusiasts;
the industry standard for minis sculpting
- [SBP] Squadron Putty - AKA"green stuff" to plastic
model kits enthusiasts
Note: Green Stuff is Not The Same Thing to Everyone
Among miniatures enthusiasts, "green stuff" refers
to Kneadatite Blue-Yellow, an epoxy ribbon putty that is good
for sculpting masters of miniatures, whereas among plastic model
kit enthusiasts, "green stuff" is a solvent-based putty
useful for filling gaps in plastic model kits.
Tips & Tricks Using Milliput ERP
See Milliput's home page
and read about sculpture techniques. Most important and generally
useful is pointing out that the epoxy resin putty slowly hardens
and becomes gradually less water soluble. This means that you
can dip your finger in water and smooth out the surface. You
also wet your tools for easier working, but since water will
not readily stick to metal putty sculpting tools, you can use
of KY and water. The old school method was licking the sculpting
tool, but that may not be good for your health.
When I knead the pieces together initially, there is a tendency
for small particles to flake off and fall onto my work surface.
That's messy and wasteful. After I break off the two pieces and
initially combine them together, I dampen my fingers in by dipping
them water once. This helps reduce the amount of particles that
break away and fall off the ball of putty.
Stages of Milliput
- Initial - soft and tacky
- 1 hour - rubbery and less tacky
- 3-4 hours - hard and tack free
- overnight - rock hard (now it can be filed, machined, drilled,
Tips & Tricks Using Green Stuff
I am a neophyte, but here are some pointers:
- Green stuff cures somewhat fast and it's consistency changes
a lot from mixing to curing, play with some first to get a
feel for it.
- Be sure to wet your tools as needed to prevent sticking and
- Work in layers because of the curing properties and becaue
it gives you some insurance against messing up the whole thing
(you can peel off a recent mistake and try again)
- If you need structure, a firm support can help, e.g. armatures
- Cool trick - for miniatures wings, make an armature of sorts
out of the wall of a soda can :)
- Green stuff dries to a hard rubber consistency; if you need
rock solid, you can add some Kneadatite Brown/Aluminum, or
you might use Milliputt for that particular part
Where Can You Buy Them?
Support your local stores if at all possible! Try to get them
to carry the paints you like. If you have a "real" gamestore
nearby that supports your hobby with good discounts and/or a
place to play, then help keep them alive. The extra 10% you might
save from mail order or online ordering will not be worth it
if your local store goes out of business! That said, sometimes
the store does not have what you need. Here are some vendors: