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Assembly Notes: Gaunts

Use Pictures!

You should look up pictures of the model in the Tyranid Codex as well as keep the box the model came in close by. The picture on the cover of the box and the pictures in the Codex will help guide you as to the intended posture and appearance, which can be very helpful, even if you want to convert the model.

Basic Guidelines

  • Do not put the body into the slottabase until you are happy that the flash is trimmed adequately. The pose of the model will make it hard to trim the flash once it is in the base.
  • Do not accidentally mix up the arms unless you want to convert them!
    • Devourer - there all identical, go crazy!
    • Fleshborer and Scything Talons - There are four pairs of arms. You can tell them apart by the little elbow spurs on them.
    • Spinefists - You can pair these up as you see fit. I personally like the look of little starfighters, so I pair up most of mine with the same extension so the guns are generally side by side.
  • I used polystyrene cement for all joining needs with this model.



  1. Make some of my Weeblanid bases.
  2. Cut pieces from sprue.
  3. Clean most of the flash off of the body halves with a knife.

    Trim mold lines and flash from long smooth surfaces where a knife is easy to use. In places like this, Tenax may do more harm than good by introducing disfiguring brush marks. Note that I am dragging the blade at about 75 degrees, not cutting into the material. I use light quick strokes so as to err on the side of removing too little flash rather than risking gouging the material. Fresh, sharp blades are essential. Skip knobby and hard to reach areas until you get to the Tenax.

    WARNING: YOU MUST HAVE ADULT SUPERVISION WHEN WORKING WITH A KNIFE! Trim off heavy flash, such as where the piece(s) connected to the sprue. Note that I have the base and handle of the blade firmly pressed into my thumb to constrain the knife to a short, slow, controlled cut. DO NOT drag the knife along its edge in a slicing motion, just press it in towards your thumb. If you drag it along the blade surface in a slicing motion, you will cut your thumb (and probably damage the model)!

  4. Assemble the body and head.

    Apply Faller Plastic Cement to the body, completely wetting the entire area that will be glued, including the back surfaces (the area that glued is being applied to in the picture at right).
    Glue the two body halves together. With this particular gaunt, there is a lot of empty space. I push the smaller body half as far back as it can go because the tail edge cannot be cleaned up easily later, whereas some more plastic cement in the crevasse at the front shoulder will fill it in nicely, especially if you have a wonderfully high precision glue applicator like with (everyone say it together) Faller Expert Plastic Cement.
    Apply a thin line of glue to each side of the slot and insert it into the slottabase.
    The model is likely to be off center or leaning forward or backward. I just lay the back edge of my ugliest Xacto knife across the slot and base, forcing the slot to align side-to-side, then smoothly scrape towards the front to align the slot front to back. Note: this only works if you make sure the slot is level or higher to begin with. If the slot has already been pressed into the base so that it is below the surface, then you will need to pull it back up a little first.

  5. Use Tenax and a brush to clean up the remaining flash on the body and head (there is a page on this technique).

  6. Wait at least 15-30 minutes or so for the glue to cure reasonably well. While you are waiting, you can move on to step #7.
  7. Now it's time to clean up the arms. As before, you can clean most of the flash off arms with knife.
  8. Glue arms into the body. You should glue both arms in at the same time so that you can get a good pose.
  9. Again, use Tenax to clean off the remainder of the flash.
  10. I then look at the model and look for spots to apply some extra Faller plastic cement to fill gaps. Under the head, at the arm/shoulder joint and at the front leg of the body joints are common spots where a gap might show up.
  11. If this is the same night that you started, I would put the models away for the night and wait until the next day so that the glue can thoroughly cure and you can safely handle the models.
  12. Clean models with soap and water, dry them, and start painting!

* - focus on heavy flash and easily reached mold lines. Difficult areas and/or creases at joints will be handled later with Tenax.

Lysogaunts - Adding Biomorph #1, Adrenal Gland

This is on a separate page about adding Adrenal Gland Biomorphs.

Lysogaunts - Adding Biomorph #2, Toxin Sacs

This is on a separate page about adding Toxin Sac Biomorphs.